Dreaming of fresh mountain air for your next holiday? The Italian Alps may well be one of the most picturesque trips I’ve ever taken. I was there in early August and wanted to share this Dolomites holiday guide based on a camper van trip I recently took with a friend.
Nestled in the Italian Alps, the Dolomites will wow you with breathtaking views, excellent hiking and trail running, icy-cold lakes, alpine meadows, and a whole lot more. But with so many towns, mountain passes, and road options to choose from, it can be overwhelming to plan a trip to this stunning destination. The good news is – if you like us decide to rent a camper van (which I highly suggest!), it’s possible to wing it a little. I hope this guide will provide what you need to know to make the most of your time in the Dolomites. From the must-see sights to the best parking spots, get ready to create unforgettable memories in this enchanting region I can now not shut up about. So pack your bags and get ready to explore the wonders of the Dolomites – the ultimate travel destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. As John Muir once said, “The mountains are calling and I must go.” So let’s go!
Exploring the Dolomites: A Bit About South Tyrol
The Dolomites, located in the region of South Tyrol, are a majestic mountain range in Northern Italy that attracts nature lovers from around the world. With its unique characteristics and diverse landscape, South Tyrol offers a wide range of attractions and activities year-round. A little disclaimer before we go further. With so much tourism comes great responsibility. South Tyrol is PACKED with tourists, many of them disregarding trespassing rules and leaving trash behind. Please don’t be one of them. Travel responsibly and respectfully and always pick up your trash. Yes, that includes toilet paper.
One of the main reasons why South Tyrol is such a popular destination is obviously its stunning natural beauty. The Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are known for their tall peaks, dramatic rock formations, and breathtaking views. Visitors can explore the region’s many hiking trails, which range from easy strolls to challenging treks that lead to panoramic viewpoints.
In addition to hiking, the Dolomites also offer fantastic skiing opportunities. With numerous ski resorts scattered throughout the region, winter sports enthusiasts can enjoy a variety of slopes suited for different skill levels. Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced skier, you’ll find plenty of options to hit the slopes and experience the thrill of skiing in this picturesque setting.
Not only is South Tyrol a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, but it also has a throng of charming towns and villages that are worth exploring. Places like Riva del Garda, Bressanone, and Merano offer a delightful mix of history, culture, and gastronomy. Visitors can wander the narrow streets, visit historic landmarks, and indulge in the local cuisine and wine. Whether you’re a hiker, skier, or cultural explorer, this region has something to offer everyone during their Dolomites holiday.
Creating the Perfect Itinerary: How to Make the Most of Your Dolomites Holiday
Planning a Dolomites holiday can be either exciting or overwhelming depending on what you pick for accommodation. Many people (Hello, Germans!) are masters of planning months and months in advance. Finding accommodation in South Tyrol can be an expensive headache.
The first step in planning your Dolomites itinerary is to determine the duration of your trip. The region offers a wealth of opportunities for exploration, so it’s essential to allocate enough time to cover the main attractions and activities. A minimum of one week is recommended to fully enjoy the Dolomites’ beauty and engage in various experiences. I did five days and definitely wished I had more time as we did spend a lot of time on the road.
Next, consider the logistics of your trip, including accommodations, transportation, and activities. The Dolomites offer a range of options but they can be pricey. Whether you prefer luxury resorts such as a boutique hotel, cozy mountain refuges, or charming bed and breakfasts, there is definitely some accommodation available to suit your needs, but it is highly advisable to book in advance, especially during peak travel seasons. That, we did not do, as I’m terrible at planning ahead. The camper van was not cheap but definitely paid off as we didn’t pay for any camping spot (more on that later) or accommodation during our road trip. To me, this was the best way to travel around at your own pace spontaneously and always have accommodation sorted our own way.
Transportation in the Dolomites can be easily managed with a rental car too, which allows for flexibility and convenience. However, public transportation options such as buses and trains are also available and can be utilized for specific routes and trips, especially for longer journeys or when exploring nearby towns and cities. But you may miss out on rural areas or harder-to-reach spots, so it wouldn’t be my preference, personally.
When planning your activities, be sure to include some of the region’s top attractions. The Dolomites are home to numerous mountain lakes, such as Lago di Braies, that offer breathtaking scenery and opportunities for leisurely walks or boat rides. This was our mid-point destination before backtracking towards Milan where we rented our van and we were a little apprehensive at the tourist situation before heading there. That said, the beauty of Lake Braies more than outweighed the number of people, and we were pleasantly surprised at how well everything was managed over there.
While it’s important to include popular attractions in your itinerary, don’t forget to leave some room for unplanned adventures and leisurely exploration. This is how we ended up with the best surprises, such as this overnight in San Martino in Badia, which was not at all on our radar until we found ourselves driving through its winding mountain pass and could not resist parking there for the night.
The Dolomites offer surprises around every corner, with hidden gems waiting to be discovered. Interact with locals, try authentic regional cuisine, and immerse yourself in the unique culture and charm of the region. I was surprised at how much German is being spoken here!
Hidden Gems: Exploring National Parks and Lesser-known Destinations in the Dolomites
While the Italian Dolomites are known for their iconic peaks and popular destinations, there are also lesser-known areas waiting to be explored. These hidden gems offer a more secluded and authentic experience for those seeking tranquility and off-the-beaten-path adventures.
One such hidden gem is Val Gardena, a picturesque valley renowned for its stunning landscapes and charming villages. It is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a wide range of activities such as hiking, mountain biking, and rock climbing. The valley is also home to woodcarving traditions, and visitors can admire beautifully crafted sculptures and artworks.
Alpe di Siusi, the largest high-altitude Alpine meadow in Europe, is another hidden gem worth visiting. Located in the heart of the Dolomites, this vast expanse of meadows and woodland offers incredible opportunities for hiking and nature walks. In winter, Alpe di Siusi transforms into a winter wonderland, making it ideal for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. This was definitely our highlights.
Lake Garda, although not exclusively in the Dolomites, is in close proximity and an excellent addition to your itinerary. As Italy’s largest lake, it offers a range of activities such as sailing, windsurfing, and exploring charming lakeside towns. Surrounded by mountains, Lake Garda provides a stunning backdrop for relaxation and adventure. For our itinerary, we elected to drive on one side of Lake Garda on the way up to Lake Braies, and return on the other side, which I highly recommend.
Dolomites Holiday: The Logistics of Our Trip
We flew into Milan Malpensa and rented our van from Indie Camper Van, which is located a short taxi ride away from the airport. Public transport is also doable, I’m pretty sure there’s a bus you can ride. Itinerary-wise, all we knew was that we wanted to reach Lake Braies and that this would likely be the northernmost point we would reach before backtracking. The rest was up in the air and that was one of the best things we could have done in hindsight.
To stay connected and navigate along the way, I’m on a European phone plan, so there was no issue for me, but my friend came from Canada and decided on an eSim which worked perfectly. Learn more about eSIM here if you’re interested in that option. Another thing not to forget is your travel insurance — the Dolomites are full of hazards, so do not leave it to chance and always cover your ass.
Packing-wise, don’t forget a good hiking backpack, trail running shoes, your swimsuit, a reusable water bottle, a hat, sunscreen, and sports clothes. The time of year you visit will dictate what to bring, but even if you visit in Summer (the best time in my opinion as I’m not a skier), be prepared for chilly nights up in the mountains. I never travel without a fleece.
For the camper van parking spots, we used a mix of the app park4night, googling “free parking spots”, and our own judgement. As night falls, camper vans start to emerge in parking lots and we often stopped and asked people what the situation was. I was pretty surprised to discover how chill Italy is with parking rules and the worst we experienced was a parking attendant waking us up at 7 am one morning politely asking us whether we could either pay for the day or go. I don’t suggest you play pirates mindlessly but with good judgment and respect, it’s possible to park for free in a lot of breathtaking landscapes along the Italian Alps. Official camping grounds in the Dolomites are jam-packed and not the ideal place for a quiet night of sleep.
Here are the details of our trip day by day. You can also view it on Google Maps here.
- Day 1: We drove along the East coast of Lake Garda with several stopovers to admire the scenery and ended up parking the van in a town called Malcesine in a public parking lot that doesn’t have any specific rules for overnight stay. We were woken up by early bird windsurfers the next morning and an incredible view of the lake.
- Day 2: After a quick coffee and pastry in Torbole, we headed away from Lake Garda and parked in Lago di Caldaro for a proper breakfast (cooked ourselves in our van kitchen) and our first-day hike/trail run, peppered with a lot of grape and apple foraging and a dip in the lake + a surprise opportunity to shower (the only shower of the trip haha) unnoticed at a campsite. We drove as close to Lake Braies as we could and parked the van in a forest spot we found a little late — I didn’t take note of what the town was called.
- Day 3: This was the day we wanted to reach Lake Braies and had the biggest apprehension about, as it sounded busy and complicated from what we read online, but it turned out surprisingly smooth as butter. There are three different parking spaces to go to Lake Braies, the cheapest and often the last available being obviously the furthest, but as we were planning to hike/run 10 to 15 km per day, this was perfect. A 5km hike through enchanting sceneries took us to Lake Braies with its incredible views, jagged peaks, and turquoise water. Do not let how popular it is deter you as it is truly one of the most beautiful and magical places I have ever visited. And the perfect place for a swim, but beware that it is extremely cold! After a day of self-guided walks, we drove towards the general direction of Alpe di Siusi and Alta Badia, avoiding the toll roads to try and catch the best views possible and boy, were we not disappointed! We parked in San Martino in Badia in a parking spot across from Ütia de Börz which was great for breakfast the following morning!
- Day 4: This was our day to find a cable car and make our way as high up and away from sea level as we could! We found our way to Col Raiser and headed towards the Seceda Ridgeline and Funes, which incidentally seems to be a mountain bikers and paragliders’ paradise. It is incredibly beautiful and should definitely be a part of your Dolomites walking holiday. From flower-filled meadows to craggy peaks filled with cows adorned with ridiculously large cowbells, this area of the Dolomites was possibly the highlight of our Dolomites vacations. On that day, we drove back down towards Lake Garda and had a lovely evening in Riva del Garda (swim, wine, and pizza, what more can you want out of a summer holiday?) and parked for the night in Tremosine sul Garda high on top of a hill with an amazing view (which we only discovered the next day as we drove well into the night).
Day 5: We had to return the van to Milan by 11 am on our last day, so this was mostly only spent driving, but with once more incredible views and some great snacks along the way.
I hope you’re feeling inspired to pack your bags and embark on an unforgettable adventure in this stunning region of Italy. Whether you’re a nature lover, adventure seeker, or cultural explorer, the holiday region of the Dolomites offer something for everyone. From hiking and skiing, to exploring charming towns and indulging in local culture and cuisine, South Tyrol seemingly has it all.
Please do remember, with great opportunities come great responsibilities. As you plan your trip, keep in mind the importance of responsible and respectful travel. Leave no trace, interact with locals, and immerse yourself in the unique culture and charm of the Dolomites. As you make your way through this stunning landscape, always remember the words of Reinhold Messner, “The mountains are not fair or unfair – they are just dangerous.” So stay safe, but don’t be afraid to take a leap and explore all that the Dolomites have to offer.
Now it’s your turn. Plan your itinerary, pack your bags, and get ready to create unforgettable memories in the Dolomites – the ultimate travel destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. As the saying goes, “The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.” So open the pages of the Dolomites and discover the hidden gems and adventures that await.
Amélie is a health and wellness junky. Certified yoga instructor with Yoga Alliance in the Vinyasa and Ashtanga styles, she has a Yoga Instructor Certification – Level I (300 hours) and Yoga Instructor Certification – Level II (200 hours) under her belt. She also has a certified Open Water Diver certification with PADI and SSI Scuba Schools International Freediving Level I certification with SSI Scuba Schools International. She’s been vegan for over 15 years and is obsessed with anything wellness-related.