My Stay at Sumahan on the Water in Istanbul

2026 update: since my stay, Sumahan on the Water has changed hands. Nedret and Mark Butler, the architect couple who owned and personally ran it as an intimate 24-room family hotel, sold the property in 2024. It has since reopened as the Vakko Hotel & Residence Sumahan Bosphorus, now a smaller 12-room property with a completely different restaurant lineup, including a Caviar Kaspia outpost. Everything below describes my stay at the original, family-run Sumahan, not the current Vakko-era hotel.

Istanbul is a wonderful but hectic city and offered me several amazing experiences. I arrived straight from Bangkok after a 40 hour commute, already frazzled by the pulse of the Big Mango. I was looking for a bit of a retreat on my first few days, an place where I could lay my head in peace while curing my jetlag. I found just that and much more at the beautiful Sumahan on the Water, a boutique hotel located on the greener, maybe less visited Anatolian side of the Bosphorus, the quieter Asian side of Istanbul. It truly was the perfect introduction to this vibrant city, and a tranquil retreat before the rest of my trip got moving.

Sumahan on the Water is an Ottoman-era alcohol distillery repurposed into a stylish, warm and intimate boutique hotel right on the waterfront, a genuinely contemporary architectural treasure in a historic waterside setting, as you’d expect from the name! – in the Çengelköy neighborhood. It’s a great laid back part of the city that feels more like a small village with wooden houses, nice cafes and restaurants, organic fruit and vegetable kiosks at nearly every street corner and walkways along the Kuleli coast. Strolling around the village, I was handed small crunchy cucumbers to sample by vendors a few times; it is a charming area of Istanbul indeed. It may feel a little far from the old part of the city to some people, but it’s a great tradeoff for the level of quietness afforded by the neighborhood. A cute little mahogany boat on the hotel’s private launch whisks the guests across the river several times a day at a fixed schedule, so the distance is absolutely not a problem. The view from the hotel, and from all of the rooms, is simply breathtaking, affording incredible views of the Bosphorus and across to the European side of Istanbul, with the restored baroque revival Ortaköy Mosque and the massive Çamlıca Mosque both visible in the distance depending on the time of day. It is especially stunning at night when the bridge lights up.

Sumahan’s industrial past is still very prominent with apparent girders throughout the hotel and a glass elevator in the lobby, part of what made it such a unique gem of a hotel among Istanbul’s boutique options. My room is a great mix of the coolness of the original industrial architecture with the added romantic warmth of plush beddings and furniture, a stone fireplace, and a proper seating area that doubled as a little living room of my own. It is modern and classy and I absolutely love the design. The ample windows bring lots of wonderful natural light into the room and the lounger is the perfect place to look out and daydream as you watch luxurious yachts, tourist boats and tankers glide past. The bed also faces the windows, so be sure to leave the curtains open at night to wake up to the most magical scenery. You’re even given a pair of binoculars if you feel extra nosy about what’s cracking on the water.

I stayed in the small deluxe room, but there are five other different types of accommodation to choose from, each with their own personality, most spacious rooms with fireplaces, but all with magnificent views. The ground floor features two-storey lofts opening onto a grassy courtyard next to the restaurant and some of them even have a bath with a Bosphorus view. So dreamy!

There are only 24 rooms at Sumahan on the Water so the service is intimate, fast and seamless, which feels great in such a large city that can sometimes feel a little impersonal. This was very much the Butler family’s own project too, Nedret and Mark, both architects, worked on the conversion alongside their designer daughters, and that personal, family-run touch showed in every corner of the place. I am always a little worried about my bicycle being cumbersome when I visit smaller boutique hotels, but it was whisked away from me with a smile and safely put in storage before I could even start to express my worry. There always seems to be a member of staff at hand for any request, genuinely helpful service from start to finish.

The included breakfast buffet at Sumahan is served by the river (there is a lovely terrace for the warmer months) and is absolutely stunning, more like a proper daily spread than a standard continental breakfast, and conveniently vegan-friendly, giving me a first taste of one of the most food-centric countries I have been given to visit: a cornucopia of lush fresh fruit and dried fruits, crispy and vibrant vegetables, delicious olives, nuts, simmit (a bagel-like bread) and a whole assortment of other breads with a great selection of jams. The award-winning and exciting Tapasuma restaurant, the hotel’s waterfront restaurant at the time, was also part of the property.

And if this is not enough to transport you into an oasis of luxury, calm and serenity, Sumahan also has a wonderful wellness centre with a Turkish hamam, a proper hammam spa, and massage therapy on offer, from a full body massage to something lighter with warm herbal oils. Is this Turkish delight or what? A little taste of Turkish culture built right into your stay.

If this side of the Bosphorus intrigues you, I’d genuinely recommend building a few days around it. It sits an easy boat ride from Beylerbeyi and within reach of the Anatolian Fortress dating back to the 14th century, and Yıldız Park and Dolmabahçe Palace are both an easy trip across the water if you want the European side too. I’ve mapped out how to split time between both sides of the city, including this exact stretch of the Bosphorus, in my Istanbul trip itinerary guide, and if the hamam here whets your appetite, my hammam guide covers a few more options on both sides of town. Next time I’m back, I’d happily do it all over again.

Many thanks to Sumahan on the water for their hos­pi­tal­ity. As always, all opinions are my own regard­less of who is foot­ing the bill.

Amélie

Amélie is a health and wellness junky. Certified yoga instructor with Yoga Alliance in the Vinyasa and Ashtanga styles, she has a Yoga Instructor Certification – Level I (300 hours) and Yoga Instructor Certification – Level II (200 hours) under her belt. She also has a certified Open Water Diver certification with PADI and SSI Scuba Schools International Freediving Level I certification with SSI Scuba Schools International. She’s been vegan for over 15 years and is obsessed with anything wellness-related.